On Monday 17 March the rumours were confirmed — Jonathan Anderson is leaving his post as creative director of Loewe, a position he has held since 2013. We might have known it was coming for a while (he is rumoured to be moving to Dior), but it doesn’t make it hurt any less.
Anderson has transformed the Spanish leather goods company, owned by conglomerate LVMH, into one of fashion’s most recognisable and coveted labels. His fusion of art, culture and (at times) madness have earned him awards and industry praise alike — he is truly a once in a generation talent.
His eponymous label (which he still heads up) JW Anderson began life in 2008, after the Northern Irish designer graduated from London College of Fashion. Originally a menswear brand, he did two seasons as part of the talent incubator Fashion East, before branching into womenswear in 2010. LVMH acquired a minority stake in the label when he took over at Loewe in 2013.
While a successor and Anderson’s next move are both yet to be named, it is undeniably the end of an era. His tenure at Loewe will go down in history — here are just some of the best moments.
Maggie Smith
(Image credit: Loewe)
For Loewe’s Spring 2024 pre-collection campaign, Anderson cast a roster of celebrity talent — something he has become renowned for. Photographed by Juergen Teller, alongside the likes of Greta Lee and Josh O’Connor, was 88-year-old actor Dame Maggie Smith. Wearing a giant fur coat and carrying the house’s signature Puzzle bag (more on that later), the image broke the internet. Not only was Smith – who sadly died last September – an iconic British actress with an eye-wateringly impressive career, but it was refreshing to see an older woman fronting a luxury fashion campaign. Anderson reminded the world that great style is ageless, and we loved him even more for it.
Challengers
(Image credit: Getty Images)
Last year, Jonathan Anderson turned his hand to costume design for the first time. Challengers was the film of the summer, and while there were a few staple-item Loewe cameos (notably the XL Flamenco bag) it was the ‘I Told Ya’ T-shirt that really took off. Anderson created it for the film, originally inspired by a design worn by John F. Kennedy, and while it plays a big role on-screen, it also became a sensation off-screen. Worn by all of the cast on red carpets and as part of their off-duty style, Loewe made the T-shirts available to buy so everybody could take home a slice of the action.
Beyonce’s Renaissance Tour
(Image credit: Getty Images)
Working in collaboration with costume designer and super stylist Shiona Turini, Anderson created several looks for Beyonce’s Renaissance World Tour in 2023. Rhinestone bodysuits in silver and gold featured hand motifs from Loewe’s Autumn/Winter 2023 runway, where they originally appeared on a sleeveless dress. The looks showcased the house’s storied craftsmanship, being created by artisans at Loewe’s Paris and Barcelona ateliers.
Studio Ghibli
(Image credit: Loewe)
There’s no doubt that Jonathan Anderson loves a collab. Arguably his most defining for Loewe was the ongoing partnership with Studio Ghibli, the renowned Japanese animation studio. Beginning in 2021 with the film My Neighbour Totoro, the house produced subsequent collections with Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle. “Key pieces embody the beloved characters and backdrops, giving wearers the chance to identify with the film on a deep level and escape into its rich layers. It’s almost like virtual reality in wearable form,” said Anderson at the time. Storytelling, world-building and totally charming, these items are some of fashion’s most collectable pieces.
Spring/Summer 2025
(Image credit: Loewe)
All of Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe shows are great, but this one in particular was special as it marked his 10-year-anniversary at the house. The set was stripped back by his usual standard’s, featuring a single artwork by Tracey Emin in the centre of a round white room. The collection featured several sheer floral dresses, with visible hoop skirts underneath, that felt like an ultra-modern take on couture designs of the past. He shed tears upon taking his bow, which began the rumours he would soon be leaving the house.
Loewe Craft Prize
(Image credit: Loewe)
The Loewe Craft prize was founded by Jonathan Anderson and foundation president Sheila Loewe in 2017. An annual competition and exhibition featuring independent makers from around the world, and judged by a panel of experts, a grant prize of €50,000 is awarded to the winner. We wonder if Anderson ever has time to sleep…
Balloon Heels
(Image credit: Getty Images)
Only Jonathan Anderson could make the masses covet…balloons. For Autumn/Winter 2022, the party decoration featured throughout the collection on heels, bra tops and dresses. They went on to become a red carpet hit, and he has also used roses, nail polish bottles, make-up brushes and cracked eggs as replacement for regular stiletto heels. Because, why not?
Rihanna’s Super Bowl Performance
(Image credit: Getty Images)
In 2023, on the biggest stage in the world, Rihanna chose to wear custom Loewe for her Super Bowl half-time show performance. Drawing inspiration from flight gear and the show’s dynamic scenography, the bright red jumpsuit was paired with a made-to-measure corset in sculpted leather. Why is it so memorable? Rihanna was pregnant with her second child, and announced the news by zipping down the jumpsuit to reveal her bump.
The Puzzle Bag
(Image credit: Getty Images)
There have been many iterations of the Puzzle since it was first introduced as a duffel in Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2015 men’s collection. It appeared as a top-handle with a crossbody strap at the women’s show that September, and has gone on to become one of the most recognised items from Jonathan Anderson’s design tenure at Loewe. “I set out to find a new way of building a bag, fundamentally questioning its structure,” Anderson reflected in a press release upon its launch. “It was about deconstructing a conventional bag to create a flat object with a tridimensional function.”
Aubrey Plaza’s ‘Post-It’ Dress
(Image credit: Getty Images)
Last January, Aubrey Plaza wore a butter-yellow dress from Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Featuring a square front with a large pin detail, the dress gained traction on social media as viewers drew similarities between the shape and that of a Post-It note. Fans began editing the image, adding text to the dress, most memorable the line from Sex And The City where Berger breaks up with Carrie: “I’m sorry, I can’t, don’t hate me”. Plaza herself shared the image, creating playful confusion across the internet.
